Food Adventures in Ilocandia

Every time we visit the Philippines there are new food adventures. Abra Miki, a regional noodle soup, which I jokingly call "Ilocano Ramen"after the dominant ethic group, is a favorite. The bright colors of annatto, fresh green onion and fried garlic make this a good dish for any meal. 

Last time we visited, I fell in love with the Ilocano Empanada. It seems that every country that suffered the indignities of Spanish colonization created their own spin on the filled pastry. The Ilocano version uses rice flour colored with annatto instead of wheat which only makes sense. Inside, is a mix of papaya, egg and spicy longanisa sausage that makes for a unique taste.

  Across the Philippines there are different spins on the empanada that I hope to try one day. There are also different spins on longanisa sausage. The local variety of the pork sausage, called without irony, Vigan longanisa, after the major regional city, is heavy in garlic and gives the empanada its distinctive flavor.  In La Union there is a city named Bauang (garlic), illustrating the importance of that spicy allium. Other parts of the country are known for sweeter or sour versions of the tasty, tiny sausages, but the garlicky northern variety is my favorite.

I like to joke that it would be fun to open a vegan restaurant in Vigan and serve vegan Vigan longanisa. Unlike other Asian countries, the Philippines dishes are often meat heavy with pork especially prominent. While there are more great vegetables and legumes than can be listed here, vegetarian dishes of any variety are rare. I am craving a bean burrito, but it will have to wait until we get back to the states. I did find a new favorite non meat dish though.

 

On this visit, my favorite new thing are the flavorful, meaty Kankanonnool mushrooms (above) that are in season. Harvested from the mountain forest around certain trees at the beginning of the rainy season, they are a treat only found in this region where they seem grow. The season for this local food is so short, this is the first time I've tried it. An adobo made from these mushrooms is to me better than meat. I hope to explore more of the local delicacies in future visits.